Jeju-do
Located of the south coast of Korea, Jeju-do is the country's largest island and most southern province. Known as 'Korea's Hawaii', it is a volcanic island covered in subtropical plants and surrounded by warm seas, making it a popular destination for Koreans and foreigners alike.
How to get there:
Whilst it is possible to take various modes of transport on your journey to Jeju, if you're travelling from Seoul I recommend that you take the easiest and most convenient route, which is by air. From Gimpo International Airport a flight to Jeju only takes about an hour. There are various domestic airlines to choose from and all prices will vary, so it's important to shop around. It's also worth remembering that Jeju is an extremely popular destination for Koreans, so during holidays such as Chuseok and Lunar New Year prices are going to be much higher than during the off-peak season.
Getting around the island:
Before my trip to Jeju I did a lot of research around this, particularly because I cannot drive! If you speak to any Korean or read any travel blog, they will strongly recommend that you rent a car for the duration of your stay on the island. However, as I did not have that option I had to make do with public transport and taxis.
Buses: In my personal opinion, after living in a fairly rural part of the UK, I think Jeju's public transport is fairly good. Of course it's nothing like Seoul's public transport (I mean, what is?) or that of most cities in Korea, but it will help you get around the island. There are two buses, the #201 and #202 which travel pretty much along the coast of the island. Whilst this can take quite a long time, you can at least reach most coastal destinations and beaches with relative ease; you'll just have to plan ahead to make sure your timing is correct. I found both of these buses very useful and convenient during my time in Jeju as each bus is generally only 30 minutes apart. There are of course other buses, but this is where I started to feel the inconvenience of relying on public transport. These buses don't often show arrival times on apps or the digital boards at bus stops, so you have to rely on the paper timetables posted at each bus stop. You should also be aware that some buses have slightly altered routes (I learned this the hard way!) so try your best to keep track of the bus stops on your app and on the bus while travelling. Fortunately, the bus stops are displayed on a screen at the front of the bus and they are translated into English if you need it. In my case, I would often take one of the more reliable buses as close as I could to my destination, and then walk or call a taxi to take me the remainder of the way.
Taxis: As mentioned, taxis are another convenient way to travel around Jeju, but they are quite expensive. Depending on where you're travelling to, taking a taxi could cut your travel time in half or by even more, so in that situation I think it could be worth paying a little extra to save yourself quite a bit of time. I always use the Kakao-T app when requesting a taxi because it's safe and extremely useful if you're not confident in speaking Korean. Due to the slightly lacking public transport system, there are many taxis in Jeju and it should be easy to pick one up, especially if you're in a tourist location. However, be aware that if you're in a slightly more remote location, or if it's a national holiday or even late at night, your chance of securing a taxi ride dwindles immensely. For that reason, I usually return to my hotel a little earlier in the evening if I know I have to take a taxi.
Where to stay:
What many people don't realise is that Jeju is actually quite a large island; around 3 times the size of Seoul! So it can take some time to travel around the island, especially if you're relying on public transport. Therefore, I think it's important to choose accommodation close to the places you'd like to visit so that you don't waste too much time on travel. In my case, I stayed at two hotels in different locations so that I could make the most of my time on the island, and I would strongly recommend both of them.
For the first part of my trip I stayed on the west coast near the famous Aewol Café Street. I wanted to have the experience of a room with a sea view so I chose a hotel that was located right next to the stunning Gwakji Beach. If you too would like to wake up and fall asleep to a beautiful sea view, then Aewol Drama 2015 hotel is a great choice. By bus, it'll take around an hour to an hour and half plus a short 10 minute walk from the bus stop to the hotel from Jeju International Airport. Or, if you're travelling by car or taxi it'll take around 40 minutes.
The hotel is located right on the sea front so it's a two minute walk to the Gwakji Beach. Directly behind the hotel you'll find the famous Aewol Café as well as a few other cafes and restaurants, so it's easy to find somewhere to eat on the first night or morning of your stay. The hotel is also fairly close to the popular and trendy Aewol Café Street, which you can get to via bus or taxi or even by walking along the coastal trail for about 30-40 minutes.
Even though this is a hotel I felt like it was more like self-catering accommodation. Throughout the entire stay I never met any staff or the owner and I completed both check-in and check-out by myself. Despite not meeting anyone in person, a member of staff sent an email on the morning of my stay with directions to the hotel and self check-in details. Also, throughout my stay I received an email every morning asking whether I needed anything like more towels or toilet paper. I noticed that if a guest requested these they would be left outside their room for them. I personally don't mind this kind of accommodation but I know that some people enjoy the experience of a typical hotel setting where they can speak to staff in person.
As previously mentioned, I chose an ocean view room which was a great experience. There were two large windows in the room with a full ocean view. The room itself was large and clean, and the furnishings were fairly modern. There is a small kitchen but cooking in the room is not allowed, although there was a kettle, fridge and microwave so I assume heating up some food like some late-night ramyeon should be fine. I found the bed really comfortable and there was an air-conditioning unit which worked well. The bathroom was also clean and very modern. Shower gel, shampoo and conditioner were provided along with towels, but any other toiletries including a toothbrush and toothpaste are not provided.
It was also mentioned that there is a café/bar in the building but when I went up to the next floor it wasn't open. I'm not sure if that was bad timing or due to the Chuseok holidays, but of course the nearby Aewol Café was open everyday so you can easily head over there for a drink and snack.
Overall, I really liked the location of this hotel and the room itself was clean and well-furnished. Of course, the highlight was the amazing sea view and it's proximity to the beach and cafes and restaurants. If you'd like further information on this hotel, you can check it out on Agoda.com.
For the second part of my trip I stayed on the south coast in Jeju's second largest city, Seogwipo. If you'd like a city break but still want a great sea view, then I recommend staying at Park Sunshine Hotel. By bus, it'll take just under 2 hours plus a short 10 minute walk from the bus stop to the hotel from Jeju International Airport. You may also have to make a few transfers during that time. Alternatively, if you're travelling by car or taxi it'll take just under an hour.
The hotel is located in the western part of the city so you will have to walk or take some form of transport to get to the cafes, restaurants and attractions in the east of the city. On a positive note, it's in a quiet location and offers some great views not only of the sea but also of Hallasan Mountain. It is however a short walk from Seogwipo Provincial Marine Park where you can take a short tour on the ferry or, if you're a little more adventurous, take a submarine tour. From there you can also access a small island called Saeseom which is a great place for a short walk. Another great place to visit is Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, which is also a short walk or drive from the hotel.
I also chose a room that offered an ocean view but as the hotel is not as close to the sea as the previous hotel, the view was nothing like the one I had in Aewol. But that didn't bother me because the room itself was spotlessly clean and the furnishings were modern and gave off a cosy, warm vibe. The bathroom was also clean and very modern, and even included a bath which can be a rare feature in Korea. Shower gel, shampoo, conditioner and body lotion were provided along with towels, but any other toiletries including a toothbrush and toothpaste are not provided. There is also a mini fridge and there was a kettle and cups in the minibar. I was a little confused at first about how to turn off the lights in the room, but that's because I didn't fully read the leaflet they gave me at the front desk! I discovered that lights, air-conditioning and even an alarm can be controlled through the touch-screen telephone located on the bedside cabinet. This was very useful and convenient, especially at night when you're already in bed.
Staff were friendly and helpful and they all spoke English very well. The hotel does offer a buffet breakfast which cost 16,000 won for an adult. If you book your breakfast in advance (the night before for example) there is a small discount. I felt that the price was a little high compared to other hotels I've stayed at, but there was a wide range of foods available and everything I tried was delicious. And, of course, it's a buffet so you can go back and fill up your plate as many times as you like.
Overall, I really liked the modern, clean and even cosy style of this hotel, and the staff were so helpful and friendly. Of course the ocean view couldn't compare to the one I experienced at the previous hotel, and the location was a little further from main attractions, but it was easy to walk or take a taxi and there was a variety of natural features to see, as well as many cafes and restaurants to choose from. If you'd like further information on this hotel, you can check it out on Booking.com.